Coat



Aug. 21, 1934- o. F. \WEISEND COAT I Filed Jan. 4, 1934 Zhmentor OTTOF.WEISENU at the back and posterior.

Patented Aug. 21, 1934 COAT Otto F. Weiscnd, Columbus, Ohio ApplicationJanuary 4, 1934, Serial No. 705,247

3 Claims.

This invention relates more particularly to coats for men and has forits principal object to provide a construction of coat that conformsmore nearly than heretofore to the figure of the wearer One result ofthe construction is that the upper back is, in normal use, maintained ina smooth and unrumpled condition. Other objects will appear from thedisclosure herein.

The invention is embodied in the example herein shown and described, thefeatures of novelty being finally claimed.

In the accompanying drawing- Figure 1 is a view in rear elevation of acoat containing the invention.

Fig. 2 is a view in elevation looking at the left hand side of the coat.

Fig. 3 is a view on a larger scale of a fraction of the coat looking atthe inner side of the rear and illustrating details of construction atthe junction of the tail with the top of the back.

Fig. 4 is a vertical section on a larger scale, on say the line IV-IVFig. 3.

Fig. 5 is a horizontal section on the line VV Fig. 3 but on a largerscale.

Fig. 6 is a plan view of the piece to form the belt used in theconstruction.

In the views 10 designates the upper portion of the coat. 11 designatesthe tail portion of the coat. Said upper portion and tail can each bemade of one or more pieces. The lower edge of the upper portion of theback is out on a curve convexed upward and on the bias and the upperedge of the tail portion is cut similarly, substantially as indicated,so that the margins of said portions can be lapped-one upon the otherandthe two basted together parallel to said curves and subsequently sewedwith a stay piece or tape 12 of flexible material preferably by a lineof stitching 13. The stay piece 12 is first sewed to the upper portionof the back from side seam to side seam and before the application ofthe lower tail part and said stay prevents the bias edge of the upperpart of the coat from stretching and holds the entire edge of the backfirmly to permit the fulling in the skirt to produce the rounding effectshown. The pleats 1818 are made before the stay piece 12 is sewed on theupper portion of the inner side of the coat, but in fastening said tailportion and the back, as stated, the upper edge of the tail portion isfirst pleated at 14, 14, and gathered so as to produce a fullness orbulging near the top of the tail portion and therefore to fit more orless snugly, as best indicated in Fig. 2, over and around the rumps orposterior of the wearer.

Provision is made for securing this bulging or fullness effect at theupper portion of the tail by primarily cutting the taik portion ofSuiciently greater width at the top to allow the deformed byfoldlnginward the opposite longitudinal margins of the strip 15 asindicated in Figs. 3 and 4. This folded strip or belt is first sewedalong its upper margin by a line of stitching 16 to the upper portion ofthe back on a line substantially paralleling the stitching of the tape12 thereby producing a flare of the lower margin of the belt andsubsequently stitching said lower margin of the belt to the upperportion of the tall as indicated by the line of stitching 17.

The belt or strip 15 is primarily and preferably made of a straightpiece or pieces, such as shown in Fig. 6, so that when curved andapplied as described it forms an arch, there being a slight stretchingalong the upper margin, and a flaring of the material along the loweredge thereof, this aiding in producing and maintaining the fullness orbulging effect at the upper portion of the tail of the coat.

The upper portion of the back of the coat can be made with or withoutpleats such as shown at 18 and 18, the pleats 14, 14, in the tail beingmade to appear as continuations of such pleats. Also the tail portioncan be made with or without a box pleat, such as shown at 19, in themiddle of thetail of the coat. The coat can be lined and otherwise madeas usual or as required by the customer.

The forms of the parts can be changed without departing from the gist ofthe invention as claimed.

What I claim is:

1. A coat including an upper back portion having its lower edge out onan upwardly convexed line and provided with a binder adjacent said line,and a distinct tail portion having its upper portion cut on an upwardlyconvexcd line and gathered to produce a fullness and secured in gatheredcondition to said lower edge of the upper back portion.

2. A coat including an upper back portion having its lower edge out onan upwardly convexed line and provided with a binder adjacent said line,a distinct tail portion having its upper portion cut on an upwardlyconvexed line and gathered to produce a fullness and secured in gatheredcondition to said lower edge of the upper back portion, and an archedbelt secured to the exterior of said united upper and tail portions andcovering the junction between them.

